Eyebrows are my favorite. My favorite part of the face and my favorite part to wax. In my career I have easily waxed brows 20,000 times. Not even kidding. I think I have something to say about the fuzzy or not so fuzzy friends that live above our eyes and below our hairlines (sometimes in our hairlines).
My love affair with brows began when I did my first “corrective” brow wax for a young lady who came into my beauty school. She had the ever dreaded comma brow, sperm brow, rainbow brow, whatever you want to call that terrible shape that a lot of people tweeze their poor little brows into. Even then, with somewhat of an artistic eye, I knew this was absolutely not the way brows should be. Sad little semi-circles with 5 o’clock shadow surrounding them, irritated follicles from broken hairs, an arch that started on the wrong side of the brow… Almost everything that can be wrong with an eyebrow was wrong with these eyebrows. This girl needed help. I solved the problem by knocking off a few corners, softening a few edges and creating the illusion of a fuller brow and sent her out the door with a few make-up tips. It really made her day. I love that! That is a major reason I love doing brows; easy day maker.
Now, about 14ish years later I still love sending people off with improved eyebrows. I like a classic look. I have never really gone in for trends. Taking brows that are very full to very skinny is just a bad idea in my book. Unless you have a very stylized look and are willing to do the upkeep I nearly always advise against a major change. And while a nice, high arch can open up the eyes you have to be careful that it doesn’t drag the outer corner of the eye downward. That gives you the exact opposite result. Lately, I have been keeping brows a little straighter and just subtly opening the arch. I am glad that people are liking a fuller brow these days. I suppose that is one trend I can get behind. Let’s have two eyebrows, though, shall we?
Here are my tips for keeping your brows tidy between waxing:
-Please, please, PLEASE exercise caution when tweezing at home. A lot of people have almost zero self control in regards to tweezing their own brows. You just get in the zone in that little magnifying mirror and go to town. Put the tweezers down! If you absolutely must tweeze in between waxing appointments make sure your hands are clean, your tweezers are clean and you have good light. Only tweeze the biggest, most offensive hairs that have nothing to do with the shape of your brow. This will help avoid any mishaps. Tweezing even one wrong hair can leave a hole in your brow and make you look like Vanilla Ice. And let’s be honest, that wasn’t that great of a look even then.
-Trim the long hairs (carefully!!). Normally I do not recommend doing this on your own but if you grow super long, bushy eyebrows that get out of place quickly and you still don’t have enough growth elsewhere to be waxed just comb the brow hairs straight up and trim only the ones that are longer than the rest. This will help you avoid cutting them too short, which can also leave holes in the brow. If your brows do not stay up just use a little hair product then wash it off when you’re done.
-Never underestimate the power of filling in the brow. A lot of people avoid filling in their brows simply because they think they will look “pencilled in” or too dark. I don’t particularly like that look, either. But with the proper tools and product this can be easily avoided. It just takes practice! Make-up washes off! Go nuts! My favorite product is Smashbox Brow Tech. It has a special pomade to control/thicken the hairs and 2 shades to give you a perfect match. It comes in very light, to auburn, to dark brown. You also need an angle brush for the perfect shape. I like to start at the top line of the brow and get that perfect first. The rest is really easy to feather in. Just don’t get too much product on the brush. You can always add more. Another method is to swipe your angle brush along the tip of a soft eyeliner pencil then apply using the same technique as the powder. This gives you a little more precision without having the harsh line that using just a pencil can have. The reason this can make even grown out brows look tidy is that you get a defined border which draws the eye away from the new growth.
-Finally, if you are feeling that icky, just come on in! Generally within 2 weeks we can do something to your brows to make you feel freshened up! Schedule your appointments before you leave the salon so you already have something on the books and don’t reach panic mode when you realize your brows are more than ready.
My top 3 (technically 6) favorite eyebrows belong to Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren and Brigitte Bardot. Even so, everyone has their own unique way of growing hairs and you deserve your own look that works for your face. That’s why I never use stencils. Giving people beautifully shaped and groomed eyebrows is it’s own art form and for every set of eyebrows there is a different technique and shape. And I love bringing that out.